When I was growing up, food was still scarce in Mainland China. So it was a treat to have a chicken dish during Chinese New Year's. Mind you, the chicken we had was way better than Tyson's assembly line chicken. So much so that they taste like two different species... I remember the incredible aroma while the chicken soup is simmering... and the tenderness of the meat. So when I read in the NYT about Jidori chicken (or earth chicken), I hopped in my car and drove down Bundy to Mitsuwa.